Greens Done Right

Houston Chefs Share Secrets for the Perfect Collard Greens This Holiday Season

Collard greens are a staple on Texas Thanksgiving tables, and Houston’s top chefs are putting their own spin on the soulful Southern favorite.

In the latest installment of Houstonia’s “12 Days of Thanksgiving” series, chefs Dawn Burrell and Chris Williams—of Lucille’s Hospitality Group and Late August—shared their go-to methods for achieving perfectly tender, flavorful greens.

Burrell, a Top Chef finalist, begins by building depth with aromatics. “I sauté garlic and onion until they release their sweetness,” she says. After wilting the greens slightly, she deglazes the pan with a rich stock—a nonnegotiable for her. “That creates an intense pot liquor,” she adds. Once tender, Burrell finishes with a splash of apple cider or brown cane vinegar. “You must finish all your collard greens with vinegar.”

Williams, whose Lucille’s 1913 collective sources produce from his Kendleton farm, says mustard greens are his latest obsession. “They have a really pungent, vegetal greenness that stands up to long cooking,” he explains, noting they take only a third of the time that collards need.

For his version, Williams first seasons the cooking liquid with smoked turkey necks, tomatoes, onions, peppers, jalapeños, and garlic. “The most important thing is to let the liquid get seasoned,” he says. He recommends boiling aromatics for at least 20 minutes before adding greens. A pinch of baking soda keeps the greens vibrant, while lemon juice helps tenderize the leaves.

Chris Williams’s Recipe for Collard or Mustard Greens (Serves 8–10)

• 2 gallons water

• 20 bunches fresh collards or mustard greens (washed, chopped)

• 4 Roma tomatoes

• 1 large yellow onion

• 10 garlic cloves

• 1 jalapeño

• 1 red & 1 green bell pepper

• 1 smoked turkey neck

• 1½ cups kosher salt

• 1 tablespoon baking soda

• ¼ cup lemon juice

Instructions:
Boil water with turkey necks for 20 minutes. Blend tomatoes, onions, peppers, and garlic; add to pot and cook for five minutes. Turn off heat and add salt, lemon juice, and baking soda carefully (it will foam). Bring back to a boil, add greens, and simmer 10–30 minutes depending on tenderness. Serve with pepper vinegar or quick pickles—just like at Lucille’s.