October 8, 2025
Before fusion became a buzzword and “Asian-Latino mashups” filled food trend lists, Houston’s culinary identity was already shaped by migration, adaptation, and heart. And nowhere is that story told more deliciously than at Michy’s Chino Boricua in Katy — a humble spot where Puerto Rican and Chinese flavors collide over a sizzling wok.
At first glance, the menu reads like a collision course: fried rice beside mofongo, orange chicken paired with garlicky tostones. But behind each dish is a generational story — one that began in Puerto Rico’s Chinese kitchens and now finds a second home deep in Texas suburbia.
Owner Michelle Lao grew up with soy sauce and sofrito sharing counter space. Born in Panama to Chinese parents and raised in Puerto Rico, she spent her childhood in her family’s restaurant, absorbing the rhythm of Cantonese cooking and Caribbean warmth.
Her parents cooked like all immigrant families do — from memory, with what they had, for who they loved. Garlic was the bridge. It flavored stir-fried shrimp and plantains alike. It became the anchor for dishes like mofongo relleno de pepper steak — now one of Michy’s signature plates — and crispy carne frita served with steaming white rice.
“Chinese chefs in Puerto Rico used what they could find — adobo, sofrito, local produce — and folded it into their techniques,” Lao says. “It wasn’t fusion for fun. It was necessity. And it became its own thing.”
Before launching a restaurant empire, Lao was an accountant with a steady corporate career — Airbnb, tech, the works. But in 2019, the call to cook became too loud to ignore. Her parents tried to talk her out of it. She jumped in anyway.
After a brief partnership at San Eatery that was derailed by the pandemic, she opened her own spot on Greenhouse Road in 2021 — Michy’s Chino Boricua, named for her nickname and her dual heritage. By the time she added a second location inside Katy Food Hall three years later, word had spread: this was the place to find Puerto Rican-Chinese comfort food done right.
Her parents came out of retirement to help — teaching workflow, sharing recipes, even stir-frying in the back when the lunch rush hit. “It’s different seeing them as a kid in their restaurant than being the one running it,” Lao admits. “You understand every grind that goes into it.”
Walk into Michy’s and you’ll find styrofoam clamshells stacked high with heaping portions — orange chicken, barbecued pork ribs, pepper tofu, fried rice, and mofongo bathed in garlic butter. It’s the kind of meal that fills you up and then feeds you again tomorrow.
But the real showstopper is the tostones. Lao keeps them true to tradition with mayoketchup on the side but tosses them first in a Cantonese-style garlic butter — a technique borrowed from the Chinese chefs who made Puerto Rican food their own decades ago. The result? Crisp, savory, and utterly addictive.
“It’s a piece of home,” says one regular from San Juan who drives from Sugar Land just for the mofongo. Lao estimates that 80 percent of her customers are Puerto Rican or Venezuelan, drawn to the nostalgia of those hybrid flavors. But the rest are locals who just love a good, garlicky plate of fried rice.
In a city that thrives on cross-cultural flavors, Michy’s stands out for what it doesn’t do: try too hard. There’s no gimmick or gastro-twist, just authentic food made with heritage in mind. The menu bridges two worlds without watering either down — proof that comfort food translates in any language.
Soon, Lao plans to expand to Dallas, bringing her story (and those garlic-butter tostones) to a new audience. But for now, she’s right where she belongs — in a Katy strip center, feeding Texas one plate of Puerto Rican fried rice at a time.
In Houston, fusion isn’t a trend — it’s a way of life. From Vietnamese-Cajun to Tex-Mex, the city’s food scene has always been about adaptation and belonging. Michy’s Chino Boricua is just the latest chapter — a reminder that sometimes, the most authentic thing you can serve is a little bit of everything that made you.
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